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One of the best ways to get a familiar with the culinary culture of a new place, is by visiting its markets and getting to know local delicacies, aromas and flavours. Some say that "the market is the belly of the city!"
I won't be contradicting this. There are fresh fruits and vegetables, either locally sourced or after travelling a few kilometres, resulting in a vast selection of the most exotic products one can find. When visiting Barcelona, no matter which neighbourhood you are in, there is always a nearby market to see. Many of them even have vermouth!
Knowing the markets
Having a market in every neighbourhood is no coincidence, as Barcelona's tradition with them is significant. The markets add a substantial value of social integration and culture between the local community and travellers.
According to the types of the product offered, Barcelona's markets are divided into food and non-food markets. They can also be open-air or within buildings.
In food markets especially, there is the intense promotion of sustainability, either by promoting children's activities aimed at schools and other initiatives for the public throughout the year, including International Market Week.
When you visit Barcelona, I suggest you meet three relatively close markets in the Ciutat Vella district, in what was the old part of the city. The route I recommend will take about 30 minutes walking or 15 minutes of cycling. The time it will take you to get to know each of them in detail depends on your curiosity!
Three of these markets - La Boqueria, Santa Caterina and el Born - are neoclassical and modernist in style, combining iron and glass structures. La Boqueria and Santa Caterina are the first covered markets built in the city.
La Boqueria market is also known as Mercat Sant Josep. It receives this holy name by a popular tradition in which the market gets its name from the convent or church on which it was built. The same is true for the Santa Caterina Market,
Three essential things before starting our walk:
- the language of the markets is generally Spanish or Catalan;
- the stand in addition to their commercial name, can also be identified by a number, the two ways of identifying are clearly visible;
- and to take photos for professional purposes, it is necessary to previously process an official authorisation.
La Boqueria market
To start our walk, we go to La Rambla, 91. We first visit La Boqueria market. One of the most complete and diversified in product offering, home to more than 300 stands. Among them tapas bars and restaurants. One of the most popular bars, which is also considered this market's identity, is Bar Pinotxo, stand 465, operating there since 1940. This market's origins go back to that of an open-air market, where only meats were sold. Still, throughout its history, and various location changes, it found its ideal place and since the 1840s is where we stand.
3 things you can do there:
- taste the best products and ingredients in its gastro bars;
- participate in a cooking workshop (third floor) and take a guided tour in the company of a chef;
- and visit the stand Bolets Petràs, stand 867, with mushrooms from all over the world.
Santa Caterina market
Leaving "La Boqueria", along La Rambla, we turn left and go up to calle Porta Ferrissa. From here we walk this street continuing along Avenida de la Catedral, cross Via Laietana and continue along Avenida Francesc Cambó, up to number 16. We arrive at one of the most beautiful markets, especially for what we can only see in part, its roof! A wooden and iron structure covered with colourful ceramic plates, in homage to the old fruit and vegetable stalls in the city squares.
3 things you can do there:
- taste the sandwiches at La Torna, stand 182-184;
- learn about different varieties of Spanish olive oil, including unique oils from small producers, at the Olis Oliva, stand 153-155;
- and make an architectural discovery.
El Born market
Our next visit is to El Born Market. Taking the exit to calle d'En Giralt i Pellicer, we continue to calle dels Carders and turn right after a few meters. We then take a left and continue along calle Assoanadors until calle del Comerç. Just a few meters away find the market, El Born.
This was the first market in the city with traditional Catalan architecture and the use of iron structures. Don't be surprised by the absent of food stands, the food market ended in 1971. Until this date, it did function as such, and did so in two stages: as a neighbourhood market, but also as a wholesale market; distributing the products to others markets scattered in the city of Barcelona. After years of extensive reform, El Born now functions as a cultural centre. Its primary function is to preserve the historical memory of Barcelona and Catalonia's city.
3 things you can do there:
- visit an archaeological site, ruins of ancient Barcelona;
- have a coffee, in the Sala Castellví;
- participate in public events throughout the year, in the Plaza Comercial, located in front of the market.
La Barceloneta Market
Our tour may have ended at the café of the El Born market, but if the sea calls us with its smells and the symphony of its waves, we can go to Plaça del Poeta Boscà and visit the fourth and last market in this district, the La market Barceloneta. A centenary market gained an elegant and renewed look in 2007, without losing its original identity forged in iron.
This is among the first open-air markets in the city and stands out for its maritime character. Its location definitely had something to do with it. Here we find the freshest seafood in all its essence. At the restaurant tarraces, we can taste the produce on the spot, completing this gastronomic offer in the best possible way.
3 things you can do here:
- visit the best fish stands;
- drink coffee on the terrace of its restaurants;
- participate in the Nit de Tapes.
Feet in the sand
And obeying the call of the waves, the best way to end this tour of the Ciutat Vella markets is to get your foot in the sand!
This route is not about the beaches of this district. Still, we finished our tour so close to the sea that it would be disrespectful not to take a walk on one (or all) of the four beaches in this beautiful part of Barcelona: Sant Sebastià, Sant Miquel, Barceloneta y Somorrostro.
Take off your shoe and go ahead!
To the next!
3 things you can do there:
- walking wetting your feet;
- bathing in the Mediterranean Sea;
- have a picnic in the sand.
I hope that this brief collection can serve as an introduction to more discoveries of Barcelona's culture and history through its markets.
Have a good ride and a good appetite!
